Kreuzberg, Berlin guide

The Jewish Museum Berlin brings to life the Jewish experience beyond the horrors of the Holocaust. Crossing from the communist East to West Berlin was a death-defying act. But that didn’t stop attempts by sewage tunnel, zip line or tightrope under the watchful eye of the secret police. Learn more on an underground tour of the city.

The River Spree divides the hip neighbourhoods of Friedrichshain-Kreuzburg. While the former East and West were once connected by checkpoints, today, the Oberbaum Bridge can be crossed freely and stands as a symbol of unity. Come at sunset when musicians set up camp on warm summer nights. You can also paddleboard downriver or bar-hop the Spree’s lively clubs.

Kreuzberg’s rebellious reputation comes through in its street art and graffiti. With Alternative Berlin Tours, cover everything from the craft’s history to why artists painted over their own iconic murals. Liquidrom is an indoor pool with a space-age design that caters to Kreuzberg’s cool clientele.

Tempelhofer Feld is a former airfield turned public park that’s popular with families. Soar down the runway by e-bike, lend a hand in the communal garden or tour the Cold War terminal frozen in time. If the weather turns gloomy, head for Spiegellabyrinth, a psychedelic mirror maze as vibrant as Kreuzberg itself.

The harsh lines of a brutalist former church give little indication of what lies inside. The König Galerie showcases international and emerging artists who make use of sound, photography, performance and other disciplines. Don’t miss the outdoor sculpture garden out the back.

Some of the best Turkish food outside of Türkiye is in Kreuzberg. At the Turkish Market, sticky ‘baklava’ (nut-filled sweet pastry) transports you to the bazaars of Istanbul. Locals have relied on Markthalle Neun for fresh produce since 1891. At Street Food Thursdays, try a little bit of everything, including American BBQ, Peruvian ‘ceviche’ (marinated raw fish) and Brazilian tapioca flatbreads.

Start your after-dark adventures in the area around the U-Bahn station Kottbusser Tor. Get sweaty at legendary punk venue SO36, or hit former brothel Madame Claude for a surreal backdrop. The weekend ends come Monday lunchtime at techno temple Berghain, located inside an abandoned power plant. For something more low-key, grab a beer at your local ‘späti’, both a convenience store and community hub.

The vintage stores and indie boutiques of Oranienstraße and Bergmannstraße are a nod to Kreuzberg’s hipster population. But make no mistake — the punks were here first. At Coretex, you’ll feel like you’re seeing where the subculture began. The store houses one of the best hardcore record collections on the continent, along with band merch and DIY clothing designs.

Kreuzberg’s diverse population is reflected in the Carnival of Cultures, held over four days in late May and early June. At the end of June, Kreuzberg Festival is Germany’s biggest open-air jazz festival, offering an alternative to Berlin’s soundtrack of techno and punk. The Fête de la Musique in mid-June is a French import featuring free concerts from professional and amateur musicians.